Chris Duke shows you how to lower a 2008 Ford Mustang GT (S197) using a FR3 handling pack from Ford Racing.
This episode (S03E05) originally aired on MavTV on March 7th, 2010. This version contains the entire show, but with fewer commercials.
Links
Episode Notes
Suspension modifications are always a daunting task, typically involve special tools, and a whole lot of time. In this episode we show you how to lower a Ford Mustang and improve the handling by installing a FR3 handling pack from Ford Racing. Using mostly tools that you probably already have, it’s possible to do this in your garage over the weekend in two days.
With the exception of the strut tower brace, the FR3 package doesn’t add any new parts to your vehicle, rather it upgrades Ford’s stock parts with new ones from Ford Racing to lower your Mustang overall by 1-inch. This includes your front and rear sway bars, springs and shocks.
Also in this episode we feature another Letterz segment, the return of the Partz segment, and another quick tip in our Tipz segment.
Product Information
Our main install segment features the FR3 Handling Pack (p/n M-FR3-MGT) from Ford Racing.
The Partz segment features the StealthBox from JL Audio, differential and transmission pan covers from PML, the BedTred from BedRug, and the Tipz segment shows how to install a trunk release button from Silver Horse Racing on our S197 Ford Mustang GT.
For more information, just look to the right!
Music
This episode features music from COLDWEST. “Snakeskinner”, “Ignition”, and a custom song for the Motorz Intro.
Quick Question: In the beginning of the video you mentioned using Loctite RED on all torque fittings. Did you mean to say Loctite BLUE? As I’m sure you know, once Loctite RED has cured (24 hrs) to the part, you essentially need a blow torch to get the part off again. A Breaker Bar by itself will not be enough. And your standard backyard mechanic doesn’t have access to a blow torch. Just clarifying. Thanks
Quick Question: In the beginning of the video you mentioned using Loctite RED on all torque fittings. Did you mean to say Loctite BLUE? As I’m sure you know, once Loctite RED has cured (24 hrs) to the part, you essentially need a blow torch to get the part off again. A Breaker Bar by itself will not be enough. And your standard backyard mechanic doesn’t have access to a blow torch. Just clarifying. Thanks
You dont need a panhard bar or anything else with a 1inch drop. Anything more than a 1.5 drop then yes you will need a panhard bar. CC Plates
You dont need a panhard bar or anything else with a 1inch drop. Anything more than a 1.5 drop then yes you will need a panhard bar. CC Plates
Good point.
Good point.
Good point.
I don’t know how anyone could dislike this video. This man is saving people a lot of money!!
I don’t know how anyone could dislike this video. This man is saving people a lot of money!!
Hmmmm, on my last Mustang(2006 GT) I only lowered the rear with Roush springs(1″ drop) to even out the car and I needed to install an adjustable panhard rod(Edelbrock) because the rear did shift. I am currenting gathering all the parts to lower my 2009 GT and an adjustable panhard rod is the 1st thing I purchased.
Hmmmm, on my last Mustang(2006 GT) I only lowered the rear with Roush springs(1″ drop) to even out the car and I needed to install an adjustable panhard rod(Edelbrock) because the rear did shift. I am currenting gathering all the parts to lower my 2009 GT and an adjustable panhard rod is the 1st thing I purchased.
What brand of widowmaker strut compressors are those? they look beefy
thank you, your videos were very useful.
Awesome video :) i’ve a question , How much were the stock bump stops cut to ?
i fuck your american bolt size system!
lmao at him implying that the fr3 is the best suspension components.
I followed the directions on removal of the front strut tower. Great video, I didn’t run in to a single problem with the extraction, however…. My nut on the top of the strut tower is recessed, yours it much higher and easy to put a box wrench on. I am unable to do this, what’s the fix for this?
Is it really necessary to remove the brake caliper and rotor for this installation? Seems unnecessary and extra work.
i had my v6 mustang lowered once and now i am scared of speed bumps lol
In Saudi Arabia when you lower your vehicle the fucking police never let’s you alon. Traffic police members are mother fuckers all the time thay are on the street
you dont need spring compressors to do this. when you take the 4 bolts off the strut tower, use an impact gun and undo the bolt at the top of the strut. then lower the jack under the rotor. it will relieve the spring pressure and it wont go flying out at you….. i know i just did mine today. (2011 gt)
if your going to spend the money for the Ford Racing springs and struts spend the extra 100 bucks and get the GT500 upper strut mounts and Ford Racing jounce bumpers and you don’t have to use ANYTHING from the old setup !
Completely unnecessary to take off the brakes