Season 5: Episode 4
Bottom End Rebuild

Bottom End Rebuild

Chris Duke shows you how to rebuild the bottom end of a Chevy 350 V8 small block engine, featuring products from MAHLE Motorsports and Eagle Specialty Products.

Episode Links

Sears Blue Tool Crew
AMP Research
MAHLE Motorsports
Eagle Specialty Products

Partz Mentions

Sears Blue Tool Crew
XS Power
Holley Performance Products
Dupli-Color

Episode Notes

Our small block engine rebuild series continues! With the teardown and machine shop episodes out of the way, we can now start rebuilding our block. In this episode Chris shows you how to rebuild the bottom end of our block using pistons from MAHLE Motorsports, and a crank from Eagle Specialty Products.

This episode features Olivia Korte as our Motorz Girl and also has our regular segments, Partz and Letterz. In “Partz”, Chris talks about dead blow hammers from Craftsman, XS Power batteries, Holley M/T polished aluminum valve covers.and Dupli-Color engine enamel paint.

As always, be sure to stick around to watch our out-takes at the very end!

Music

This episode features an original Motorz theme song by Jeremy Pritchard.

Comments:

comments

Disclaimer

THE INFORMATION PROVIDED IN THESE PROGRAMS AND WEBSITE ARE FOR GENERAL INFORMATION ONLY AND ARE NOT DIRECTED TO ANY PARTICULAR INDIVIDUAL OR FOR ANY PARTICULAR MAKE OR MODEL OF VEHICLE. MODIFYING YOUR VEHICLE CAN BE DANGEROUS. APPROPRIATE SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND PROCEDURES SHOULD BE USED. USE CAUTION WHEN OPERATING A MODIFIED VEHICLE AND REMEMBER YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. THE PROGRAMS, DEMONSTRATIONS AND/OR PROCEDURES MAY NOT PROVIDE ALL NECESSARY OR RELEVANT INFORMATION. APPLICABLE LOCAL, STATE AND FEDERAL LAWS SHOULD BE CHECKED BEFORE ANY PROJECT IS COMMENCED. ADDITIONALLY, BEFORE COMMENCING YOUR PROJECT, YOU SHOULD CHECK A VEHICLE'S OWNER'S MANUAL, SHOP MANUAL, WARRANTY BOOKLET AND/OR WITH A MANUFACTURER'S REPRESENTATIVE FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION AND TO UNDERSTAND WHAT EFFECT, IF ANY, A MODIFICATION WILL HAVE ON THE SAFETY FEATURES OR THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY COVERAGE OF YOUR VEHICLE. PLEASE GET PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IF YOU'RE NOT SURE, AND, IF PROVIDED, ALWAYS REVIEW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OF ANY AFTERMARKET PRODUCT. DUKE NETWORKS, LLC MAKES NO WARRANTIES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED AS TO THE COMPLETENESS, ACCURACY, NON-INFRINGEMENT, MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OF ANY OF THE DEMONSTRATIONS, PROCEDURES, AND/OR PROGRAMS NOR DOES IT GUARANTEE THAT THE PROGRAMS WILL BE ERROR-FREE OR CONTINUOUSLY AVAILABLE. YOUR USE OF THIS WEBSITE AND THE PROGRAMS CONTAINED THEREIN ARE AT YOUR SOLE RISK.

243 Responses to “Bottom End Rebuild”

  1. Luis Baltazar Says:

    thanks friend it is good

  2. MunchiesMan1 Says:

    Optima batteries never failed me so im good

  3. mrlittlewhitekid21 Says:

    what about the blinker fluid level?

  4. thehossman1 Says:

    I hear a noise coming from under your car. I think your muffler belt is squeaking.

  5. aj9270 Says:

    a good hot tank would’ve taken the paint off and who paints before assembly ?

  6. josh ziesmer Says:

    the cross hatch put in the cylinder during the honing process will make the rings rotate in the cylinder, and due to imperfections and differences in the thickness and design of each ring, they will rotate at different speeds. in fact all two stroke engines have pins in the pistons that disables the rings ability to rotate, so the orientation of the ring gaps during assembly is pointless because it will all get messed up during engine operation.

  7. Jose Duran Says:

    I’m a grease monkey on my spare time. I want to find a 1993 Cadillac 4.9L SPFI engine. The car is in GREAT shape but I’d have peace of mind saving for a reliable new rebuilt engine. What can you recommend? Joseph (jaduranjr59@gmail.com)

  8. gavi15T Says:

    I like watching these videos because they give you a GENERAL idea on how to assemble and engine. Several things I don’t agree with, but my most concern is with the piston pin and rod installation here. Easy slip on and locking clips just doesn’t seem like a good idea. But none the less, I should give them a try in a budget motor to try them out before I critisize them. On another note, Marry me Olivia :-D

  9. speedskiff2 Says:

    Good shows. They are right about safety goggles and would hate to get that wire size stuck in me. Had a fine wire wheel stick me in eye and if you ever saw “Clockwork Orange”, that’s the same apparatus used by doctor to hold your eyelids open while they pull wire out. Only enjoyable part was sweet heart nurse putting me in a headlock while doctor went to work. I was lucky and eye was OK afterward.

  10. pipercubj3y Says:

    Maybe I missed it but, when putting the piston ring tool on the piston, where is the oil lube?

  11. xeyed621 Says:

    What about the clearance on the crank?

  12. Firstbb Lastbb Says:

    The machine shop can burn all the paint off and install the cam bearings which is a much better way to do it. Also use brass freeze plugs.

  13. graeme leigh Says:

    What about checking the nip @ crush on the bearings and the oil clearance?

  14. Aye Bee Says:

    GM built over 40 million GEN 1 small blocks. Ford and Chrysler made millions of their own versions. These are the easiest engines to rebuild. Add a aluminum cylinder head/Camshaft/Intake combo from your favorite company etc on any of those engines and you get around 300Hp at the flywheel. Revisiting a theme here for the past forty years.Next GEN V8’s from the Big Three above, and you get Electronic engine management with MP injection and variable valve timing Hint The New V6 in the recent Camaro’s[not even the SS, just base model] has more HP than this 1970 LT-1 350 this man is building

  15. Aye Bee Says:

    Old school motors are getting lame. I grew up with the stuff you see on Barret’s for sale for forty grand plus. Yes they were fast for their day…….400 Horsepower screaming metal deathtraps with drum brakes weighing 4000 pounds on bias ply 78 series tires………We are lucky to have survived what we drove.Sitting on the side of the road with percolating carbs on a 100 degree or heat soaked starter solenoids, and then there was the searching to find pump gas for 10:1 compression[Or more] for an engine without knock sensors and computer controlled timing. They are not as great as people remember. $100.00 Dayton All Season radials perform better than the red stripe or M/T performance tires of that era. Old classic=Money pit. She is a steel vampire.

  16. Aye Bee Says:

    In reply to Chevyman5436: And anyone else wishing to learn. The “Freeze plugs” are actually part of the engine block casting process from the sand mold This is where the molten iron is actually introduced and the “holes” are left over after casting. Solution: Drive a “welch” plug into it to seal the water jacket. If you wish you CAN run water in an engine: The downsides are: Water boils at 212 Fahrenheit. A mix of low mineral content water [distilled or deionized] and Glycol type low silica coolant increases the boiling point well above 212 and has additives to reduce corrosion. Frozen water DOES expand: Popping out the welch plugs because they ARE the weak point. If you have ever removed heads from an engine suffering extended abuse of no glycol coolant, expect the factory steel shim head gaskets to have rusted the heads and block together as a unit. Solution: Thor god of Thunder application with 4lb hammer and four foot length of 1-1/4″ pipe. Just be very careful cursing the owner between hammer blows.

  17. ThePictureteam Says:

    This is a mouth full but really great video.

  18. miguel del toro Says:

    Shes so pretty!!!

  19. Järri johnsi Says:

    gloves…

  20. MrButterz48 Says:

    what would i have to change if i swap my chevy s10s 2.8L v6 for a 350 v8 small block? would i have to do anything for the tranny? or computer, wiring harness etc?

  21. Moot Doe Says:

    super low compression pistons ftw!

  22. MrChico809 Says:

    Did you all have the rotating assembly balanced? I have a 383 stroker project im working on, and would love to hear your input. Scat crank, scat rods and wiseco pistons…whats your take?

  23. panhead1219 Says:

    OK, at the 6:30 mark, you start talking about the crankshaft “end play” after whapping it with a mallet. So what happens IF the ‘end resulting measurments’ are bad, one way or another? (Too close, and/or Too wide) ?Nobody explains that issue…NOBODY! What’s the fix?And it pisses me off!

  24. graeme leigh Says:

    Again – what about the other checks?

  25. gc Says:

    how to rebuild bottom end of chevy small block

  26. Chris Betson Says:

    Freeze plugs aren’t – they are core plugs – and they are not where the molten metal is introduced – they are where the inner sand core is supported and later cleaned out when the casting is made.

  27. RJ F Says:

    leave the cam bearing install to the machine shop guys for sure :) I even will have them fit my pistons to the rods. Those parts in particular are often too expensive to mess up!

  28. Hayden Kulak Says:

    Soo slow video keeps on pauseing

  29. Soothsayer74 Says:

    Olivia is smokin! She could assist me building my engine if she played her cards right :P

  30. Brandon Swearengin Says:

    Any body know what the name of those pistons are called? I know mahle but I cant find them anywhere and I think if someone knew what to look up that it would really help me find them.

  31. tubester4567 Says:

    we always put grease on the main seal too.

  32. Gaz Girl Says:

    What freeze plug you mean Welsh plug

  33. Evyn Crisafulli Says:

    she meant to say Big Fuckin Hammer or BFH

  34. Archibald Grumbleboots Says:

    “We got all these tool over here Olivia,,,,,,,what have you got”?……..a hair dryer and some straighteners lol.

  35. Tevita Phillips Says:

    After boring the block, has the displacement of the engine increased?

  36. Matt Carrasquillo Says:

    Do you write a list of every tool you’ll need in a comment? Also where do you buy the Mahle power kit from the actual Mahle website or some other outlet store?

  37. Martin Valle Says:

    the chick at the beginning was hot

  38. Glen M Says:

    What about oiling the pistons and rings before installation ?

  39. Chuck Nelson Says:

    thats all wonderful but no plastagauge to check tolerance no oil on rings or wrist pins dont offset rear main i dont use that molly cam lobe grease on anything but cam lobes and i will never wear gloves while building a engine ya cant feel grit ol boy couldnt work at my shop i prime every engine built no lube under head bolts those two clean dry surfaces play hell with torque readings after torquin head and main bolts take a fat ass puntch and a 2 pound hammer and give the bolt heads a good wrap then re chech readings it just helps everyone kinda relax but hay i guess if ya trust everyone to do a perfect job everythings ok but i would rather know what my bearing tollerances are perfect world or not

  40. dave194315 Says:

    Just put the Pistons in dry… Okay, if you want to scour the walls on the first start up

  41. Alex Paish Says:

    She’s like what the fuck is he talking about

  42. terry s Says:

    why not take it and have it sand blasted before you took it to the machinist?

  43. edwarddelbar Says:

    I agree Terry. Clean it before all the machining. #2, if you’re going to do this process, why not start with a 4 bolt?

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